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HAPPY NEW YEAR wishes with a sunny brunch recipe to better kick it off and perhaps a few resolutions to at least try everything once in your life, before it’s too late, because until you do or try something yourself, you’ll never realize the efforts it required to achieve it and hence may never learn to appreciate it enough … and this goes for everything and far beyond “just” food preparation.

The instinctual response to wanting flaky “viennoiserie” pastries like a croissant or a pain au chocolat or a brioche is to go out and buy it, all in less than 5 minutes with immediate satisfaction guaranteed. But do you know what actually goes into making these flaky viennoiserie treats ? 

Good things take time and technique … and heart.

Making viennoiserie or any type of enriched flaky pastries is no easy task. It isn’t terribly difficult either but it normally involves “laminating” dough which means creating layers of butter in between layers of dough and flattening them without mixing them together. The layers just exist side by side and all of this needs to happen in both warmer temperatures for the rising of the dough and colder temperatures so the butter layers don’t melt into the dough and become one big soft blob. 

My reinterpretation is a multi-step preparation with a simple equation of ingredients. It’s a yeasted, slightly enriched dough, flattened into very thin sheets (like home-made lasagna sheets) then layered with soft butter (organic cultured butter is best because it’s slightly higher in fat), then stacked and tightly rolled and cut, rising again, then chilled, then baked and finally glazed (twice) for the color with an egg and milk wash anf finally the orange blossom & sugar syrup for the shine and sweetness.

To me, what seems to be the most important thing, is to at least try making these once or twice in your life, just to understand and better appreciate what was involved in making them. It may require several tries and I suggest you begin with half the recipe amount, simply starting off with 8 buns instead of 16. And after you’ve made them (or tried), you’ll make them again and/or you’ll finally know and understand that a simple flaky pastry is more than that, and the next time you purchase one, whether it costs 50 cents from a supermarket or 2 euros from a fancier bakery, that this delicious, flaky and satisfying thing isn’t just a combination of ingredients and preparation steps. It’s an effort involving passion, rigour, time and precision.

At least give it a try and allow yourself this opportunity to discover flaky pastry-making with a newfound respect and appreciation and perhaps some admiration too ! Have I convinced you ? Really ?!

HAPPY NEW YEAR & BEST WISHES for 2020 . . . :)

p.s.: a dear friend of mine (F.P.) and quite a wonderful person, who I regretfully hadn't seen in a long time, passed away 2 days ago and he loved Greek-style fried apple rings or apple fritters (because he loved Greece) so I published a simple recipe for him many years ago, but i'd like to re-work on a new version soon and dedicate it to his memory ... Rest-in-Peace.

sugar & orange blossom syrup glazed puff-pastry flaky brioches

04.01.2020

16 brioches x 65 grams each

ingredients

dough :

  • 500 grams (4 cups) all-purpose flour (or finely milled, high protein tipo 0 flour)
  • 250 grams (1 cup + 2 tsp) partly-skimmed milk (or half water & half whole milk)
  • 50 grams (3 ½ tbsp) regular butter (at room temperature)
  • 50 grams (4 tbsp) granulated sugar
  • 10 grams (2 ½ tsp) dry yeast (or 25 grams yeast fresh yeast)
  • 10 grams (2 tsp) fine sea salt
  • 240 grams (1 cup or 16 tbsp) cultured butter (natural organic butter with higher fat content of 83%-86%)
  • 16 grams (4 tsp) granulated sugar

egg & milk wash :

  • 15 grams (1 tbsp) egg yolk 
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) whole milk (or light cream)

orange-blossom syrup glaze & sugar sprinkling :

  • 60 ml (4 tbsp) water
  • 90 grams (7 tbsp) granulated sugar
  • 10 ml (2 tsp) orange blossom water
  • 2,5 ml (½ tsp) vanilla extract
  • 35 grams (8 tsp) granulated sugar (for sprinkling after glazing)

instructions

  • allow the 240 grams of high fat cultured butter to come to room temperature until soft (but not melted)
  • combine the 50 grams of soft regular butter with the 10 grams salt together and set aside
  • place the 10 grams of dry yeast (or 25 grams fresh yeast) in the 250 ml cold milk with the 10 grams of sugar and whisk and set aside until slightly frothy after 15-20 minutes
  • mix the 500 grams flour with the remaining 40 grams sugar and set aside
  • combine the  yeast mixture with the flour mixture and stir until shaggy, then compress into a ball and let it rest for 15 minutes
  • combine the 50 grams soft butter with the 10 grams of salt, spread it onto your hands and incorporate to the dough by kneading for 10 minutes, then form into a ball, place into a lightly buttered bowl, cover and let rise for 2-3 hours or until at least doubled in volume (at 21°C-25°C)
  • once doubled in volume (test it by poking the dough with your finger and if it doesn’t spring back immediately, it’s ready), separate into 4 balls, roll into balls and flatten
  • flatten out with a rolling pin (or use a pasta-machine) to create long rectangles, reshape each time by folding over the edges to create a rectangle (sprinkle with flour sparingly to avoid stickiness but brush off the excess flour with your palms each time)
  • create 4 rectangles measuring 60 cm x 10 cm, then cut in half or 8 pieces of 30 cm x 10 cm each
  • smear each dough rectangle with approximately 30 grams (2 tbsp) of soft butter, sprinkle each with 2 grams (½ tsp) sugar per rectangle and lay a first  rectangle over a second rectangle of dough, roll tightly (using a thin baguette that you floured in the middle) and set aside until all 4 thin logs are rolled and gently pull out the baguette
  • slice in half and place in a covered container with baking paper and let rise for 1 ½ hours until at least doubled in size (or refrigerate overnight until the next morning and let them come to room temperature and rise and double in volume in the morning for 3 hours)
  • prepare the syrup by bringing the water and sugar to a boil, then let simmer at medium heat for 8-10 minutes until thickened and reduced to two-thirds of its initial weight/volume, then add the vanilla extract and orange blossom water and let simmer for another 1-2 minutes, remove from the heat and let cool down
  • when the buns have doubled in size, chill the dough in the refrigerator for at least 15-30 minutes before baking and preheat the oven to 230°C with a small oven-safe bowl of water inside (to create some water vapor)
  • place the baking sheet with the buns in the oven on the lower rack, lower heat immediately to 200°C and bake for 10-12 minutes until slightly golden and remove from the oven and brush with the egg and milk wash and place back inside the oven on the middle rack for another 2-3 minutes until golden and remove from the oven again and brush the still hot buns with the orange blossom syrup and then sprinkle with the sugar and bake for another 1-2 minutes, then remove and let cool down and serve warm or at room temperature ...